'' MYSTICAL MAKE UP AND BEAUTY: 29 November 2009 //

29/11/2009

How to Cover up Dark Circles

 

BB shares her secrets to cover up dark circles

Covering Up Dark Circles
What You'll Need:
To conceal dark circles, you'll need a yellow-based creamy concealer, in one shade lighter than your natural skin tone. This color masks the blue discoloration and brightens the skin. If you're extremely fair, a porcelain-toned concealer will work.
If you're lucky and you need very little coverage, a stick foundation one to two shades lighter than the rest of your face can double as your concealer.
If you have extreme darkness, use a corrector. Peach or pink in color, a corrector counteracts the purple or green tones underneath the eyes that a concealer can't cover on its own. If your skin is pale, choose the lightest colors, starting with bisque or light pink. For deeper skin tones, choose a medium or dark peach.
How To Do It:

  • Apply a light eye cream underneath the eye area. It should absorb quickly and leave your skin feeling smooth. 
  • If you're using a corrector, use a concealer brush or your fingertip to apply it at the inner corner of the eye. Continue placing the corrector underneath the eye, staying close to the lashes and patting the corrector wherever your see darkness. Gently blend the corrector by pressing it with your fingers. You're now ready to apply your concealer.
  • Use a concealer brush or your index finger to apply the concealer in thin layers. Be sure to blend well.
  • Apply the concealer all the way up to your lash line and - this part is critical - onto the dark areas by the inner corners of your eyes.
  • Use more concealer than you think you need, and blend it into the skin, using your fingers in a soft, patting motion.
  • If you still see dark circles, go ahead and apply a second layer of concealer.
  • To the lock the concealer into place, apply pale yellow powder over the concealer and on the eyelids with a powder puff.

Concealing a Blemish
How to do it:
  • Apply a lightweight moisturizer to smooth your skin and prime it for perfect makeup application.
  • Using a concealer brush, apply a stick foundation or cover-up stick onto the blemish, making sure that the shade matches your skin exactly. Don't use your under eye concealer on a blemish. Because concealer is designed to be one shade lighter than the skin on the rest of your face, a bright, light spot of concealer on a blemish will look awkward and out of place against your complexion.
  • Finish by using a powder puff to apply a small amount of face powder onto the blemish. This locks your cover-up in place.

Concealing a Scar
How to do it:
First, you have to understand that it may not be entirely possible to cover up the scar 100%.  But, you can make it less noticeable with makeup.  
  • Apply a lightweight moisturizer to smooth your skin and prime it for perfect makeup application.
  • Next, apply concealer or a creamy foundation directly onto the scar using a concealer brush or your fingers, and set with your skin-tone correct foundation.
  • Finish by using a powder puff to apply powder, locking the foundation in place. 

Diffusing Wrinkles
How to do it:
Ultra-rich moisturizers and creamy makeup formulas are the key to getting smooth-looking skin.
  • Be sure to exfoliate on a regular basis with a gentle scrub or an AHA cream. This helps stimulate cell turnover and sloughs off dead skin cells, which can make skin look dull and prevent your foundation from going on smoothly.
  • Make sure your skin is well hydrated. A great moisturizer literally plumps up your skin. 
  • Stick to creamy formulas of concealer, foundations and blush. Powder can settle into wrinkles, making them more visible.
  • No one has wrinkles on their cheeks, so play them up with a little extra blush.
  • If you have lines around your lips, keep the area moist.  Try using a lip balm on and around the lip area and don't try to conceal the wrinkles with foundation.  Instead, pick a creamy lipstick and matching lip pencil to prevent feathering.

TROUBLESHOOTING: Corrector or Concealer
Your concealer and corrector should be undetectable. If they aren't, you'll have to tweak your application method. Here are some common concealer and corrector problems and my time-tested solutions for solving them.
If it looks creepy
The thin skin underneath your eyes needs to be hydrated, since makeup settles into those tiny dryness lines. Remember to apply eye cream every night and every morning before your makeup application.
If it slips off
You've likely applied too much moisturizer beforehand. Keep your concealer and corrector on for longer by using less than a pea-sized amount of moisturizer, and then waiting until it fully absorbs before applying your makeup.
If it creases
It needed to be set with enough powder. After applying your concealer, sweep sheer loose powder over the under eye area to lock your makeup into place.
If it's cakey or streaky
Your ratio of eye cream to concealer is off. If your concealer looks thick and muddy, you'll need to apply more eye cream. If your concealer looks greasy and separated, you've applied too much eye cream. Add or remove product as necessary. (You may have to start from scratch.)
If it's too light
Very carefully, use the lightest dusting of light bronzing powder to warm up the area.
If it's not bright enough or if it's too dark
Add a tiny dab of fast-absorbing eye cream, and then re-apply your corrector and concealer.
If your eye makeup falls onto your concealer
You'll have to start over. Use eye makeup remover, a cotton swab, or a makeup sponge to carefully remove all under-eye product. Then pat on your eye cream, let it absorb, and re-apply your corrector and concealer.

How to choose the right mascara?

BB gives us some tips for choosing and applying mascaras

To Curl or Not to Curl?
Done right, curling your lashes has the eye-opening effects of a double espresso. Make sure you’re using a lash curler that’s wide enough to cover the entire lash line and that the rubber pads are properly in place. Always curl bare lashes; if you do it after applying mascara, they’re more prone to breakage.
Applying Mascara
1. Blot the end of the brush on tissue to get rid of excess mascara.
2. Don’t pump the wand in the tube. This will push air into the mascara and cause it to dry out.
3. Holding the mascara wand parallel to the floor, work from the base to the tip of the lashes. Roll the wand as you go to separate lashes and avoid clumps.
4. Always apply mascara to upper lashes from underneath; brushing mascara over the top will weigh the lashes down. If you wear mascara on your lower lashes, use a lighter hand than you did on upper lashes.
5. To prevent clumping, allow mascara to dry in between coats. Apply one to two coats if you want a subtle look and two to three coats if you want a more dramatic effect.
6. Don’t tug or rub when removing mascara because this irritates the eye area and can make lashes fall out. Soak a cotton ball with remover, press down on lashes to dissolve mascara, then gently wipe it away

Tip No. 1
True black mascara looks great on everyone. To check if it’s a true black, swipe it on white tissue or paper. Pass on it if it has a grayish cast. Choose brown mascara if you’re a light blonde or redhead and want a more natural look. Leave trendy colors like blue, plum and hunter to the teenagers.

 

Tip No. 2
Don’t share your mascara! Mascara is a potential breeding ground for bacteria that can cause eye infections. Replace your mascara about every three months.

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29 November 2009 - MYSTICAL MAKE UP AND BEAUTY